Authors:

Sumayah WAZIR, Simeon GILL, Kristina BRUBACHER

The University of Manchester, Manchester, UK

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.15221/24.07

Extended abstract:

PDF

Keywords:

Pattern construction, Sleeve pattern, 3D body scanning, Parametric patterns, Technology, Garment fit, Customization, Fashion innovation

Abstract:

In apparel design, sleeve patternmaking plays a pivotal role in determining both the comfort and aesthetic of a garment, especially for set-in sleeves. These sleeves not only contribute to the overall fit but also influence the wearer's range of motion and ease of movement. However, the process of creating a well-fitted sleeve pattern is complex, as it requires an in-depth understanding of the relationship between body measurements and pattern design. This understanding can be significantly enhanced by using 3D body scanning technology and parametric software, which offer precise and accurate measurements that reflect the wearer's unique shape.
This research focuses on enhancing the design of women's set-in sleeve patterns by incorporating 3D body scanning technology into the drafting process. By using advanced parametric tools, such as Seamly 2D Parametric software, this study assesses how precise, real-time body data can revolutionize the accuracy of sleeve patterns. The focus of the study is on size 12 Alvanon UK women's forms, which serve as a standardized model for evaluating eight established sleeve drafting methods. These methods, while unique in their approaches, share a common goal: to create a sleeve that fits well and meets the design's aesthetic requirements. Each method is sequential and detail-oriented, involving direct measurements (from the body or bodice pattern), proportional calculations, and fixed integers to define the shape and size of the sleeve.
At the core of the research lies a comprehensive comparative analysis. This study meticulously evaluates each method's calculation of critical dimensions such as sleeve crown height, bicep width, and armhole circumference. The visual comparisons produced by Seamly 2D highlight distinct variations in sleeve shape, reflecting differences in ease, styling, and how each method approaches fit.
Despite all methods being applied to the same size 12 Alvanon body form, each yields a uniquely shaped sleeve. The analysis vividly highlights these differences, pointing out the primary factors of variation across the methods, such as ease and crown height.
The study also involved evaluating sleeve pattern drafting methods through virtual fit analysis in CLO 3D, employing a standard UK size 12 Alvanon avatar without modifications to the original drafts. This comparison aimed to understand each method's strengths and limitations, offering a foundation for proposing new engineered sleeve pattern construction approaches. By analysing the theoretical underpinnings and practical outcomes of these sleeve-drafting methods, as well as conducting virtual assessments, the research identified several shortcomings in traditional techniques, such as their lack of adaptability to diverse body shapes. These deficiencies underscored the need for an innovative approach that integrates modern technology to refine the process. By leveraging tools like 3D body scanning and virtual fitting, the research seeks to develop innovative solutions for diagnosing and addressing sleeve fitting issues, contributing to the advancement of sleeve design techniques and promoting a synthesis of traditional drafting methods with modern digital tools to enhance garment fit and aesthetics.
The integration of 3D body scanning technology signals a key advancement in custom-fit apparel, offering accurate body measurements and precise contours that help produce sleeves with enhanced fit and comfort. Aligning 3D scans with sleeve patterns enables designers to visually assess and make real-time adjustments to the fit, permitting nuanced modifications potentially overlooked in traditional methods. This precise data ensures sleeves that not only conform to the wearer’s shape but also complement the body’s natural movements, achieving harmony between aesthetics and functionality.
As part of this research, a new method was developed that not only incorporates the strengths of traditional drafting techniques but also enhances them by integrating detailed, accurate data from 3D body scans. This method accounts for the wearer’s bones, joints, and muscles, creating sleeves that allow for natural movement and enhanced comfort. The 3D scans provide precise measurements that capture the true contours of the arm, ensuring a custom fit not only to the size but to the wearer's unique body shape. Furthermore, an analysis of armhole sizes and the correlation between shoulder height and underarm height was conducted to understand the variation in armhole depth across a diverse population of females. Using Python for statistical analysis, this correlation analysis revealed the relationship between shoulder and underarm height, providing insights into different body shapes and informing the pattern-making process. The analysis indicated potential variability in armhole depth, which was incorporated into the new method to create patterns that adapt to various body shapes. This data-driven approach improves the functionality and aesthetics of garments, allowing for better-fitting, more comfortable sleeve patterns that meet the needs of a wider population.

How to Cite (MLA):

Wazir, Sumayah et al., "3D Body Scanning to Transform Sleeve Patternmaking in the Fashion Industry", 3DBODY.TECH Journal, vol. 1, Oct. 2024, #07, https://doi.org/10.15221/24.07.

Presentation:

VIDEO availble in proceedings

Details:

Volume/Issue: 3DBODY.TECH Journal - Vol. 1, 2024
Paper: #07
Published: 2024/10/30
Presented at: 3DBODY.TECH 2024, 22-23 Oct. 2024, Lugano, Switzerland
Proceedings: 3DBODY.TECH 2024 Proceedings

License/Copyright notice

Copyright © 2024 by the author(s).
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are credited.
The papers appearing in the journal reflect the author's opinions. Their inclusion in the volumes does not necessary constitute endorsement by the editor or by the publisher.

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